Showing posts with label Norwegian beer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Norwegian beer. Show all posts

Friday, March 9, 2012

Kinn: Bøvelen – 5th Place! Congratulations Kinn!


Recently, the Norwegian Beer Friends Association (NORØL) released the results of their 6th annual vote on, among other things, Norway’s best beers and breweries. The results confirm what quite a lot have been saying for some time now: Kinn Brewery – based in Florø, Norway – is one of the country’s leading craft breweries and produces some of the county’s most robust brews. Out of the more than 100,000 NORØL members that had the opportunity to vote, Kinn came out in 2nd place, with 21.3 percent of the votes. And Kinn’s Bøvelen – the beer under review here – was ranked number 5 out of a total of 87 candidates. Congratulations Kinn!

The Brewery

As Norway’s westernmost town, Florø’s coastal setting and lively atmosphere makes it one of most attractive places to visit in western Norway. With a population that barely breaches 10,000, Florø is the home to fish processing, shipbuilding, petroleum industry, and, with the 2009 opening of Kinn, brewing can now be added to that list.

The word Kinn (literally cheek) is the name given to one of the outermost islands that buffers Florø from the open sea, although it was also the name of an earlier municipality that was eventually merged into the surrounding municipalities. I can only speculate that the place name “Kinn” might be attributed to the fact that area forms the westernmost point, or “cheek”, of Norway’s coastline, although this again is only speculation on my part.

Kinn brewery makes about six different beers – all of which are remarkably wonderful concoctions (see my review of the Vestkyst IPA, for another example). Kinn takes a rather traditional approach to beer-making by using open fermentation tanks and an English handpump to tap the beer. Brew master Espen Lothe also bares his grounded philosophy to brewing when commenting that “my job is not to makebeer, but to help the yeast cells to produce beer”. Lothe’s approach and philosophy are undoubtedly causes for Kinn’s remarkable brewing success and their commendable performance in NORØL’s ratings.

The Beer

With a 9.5 percent ABV, Bøvelen strives to be one of the sweeter abbey tripels out there. As for the name, Bøvelen is a word for devil, but the word is from a local dialect primarily found in western Norway (thanks Beer Sagas for pointing this out because I had a ‘hell’ of a time trying to find the word in the dictionary). With a picture of a bearded farmer with horns and holding a trident, the label is certainly consistent with Beer Saga’s interpretation.  

My sample was shared with a friend back in November of 2011, but I managed to take quite detailed tasting notes. Its hazy golden-colored body and fluffy and rocky white head are clear signs of an excellent abbey tripel. Giving the glass a generous swirl yields a tight and sticky, web-like lacing matrix. Aroma? Think typical Belgian yeast, banana, zesty pineapple, and some unidentified spicy notes.

Bøvelen’s mouthfeel is pleasant and pretty faithful to this particular style – smooth and moderately carbonated; a medium to full body; and a somewhat sticky sensation. Taking a generous mouthful brings out a wonderful array of intensely sweet flavors, like apples and candy, juxtaposed on a rich honey background. An alcohol taste clearly lingers in the background, but gains prominence as Bøvelen warms. The finish is slightly bitter at first, but then transitions back into an intensely sweet aftertaste.

All-in-all, Bøvelen – like their Vestkyst IPA – testifies to Kinn’s attention to quality, perfection, and ability to make beers that rival many of the brews from the more ‘matured’ breweries around – quite remarkable for such a young brewery. Personally, however, I found Bøvelen to be just a tad too sweet – and I emphasize the word tad. Yet, the alcohol note, while perhaps a bit too strong at warmer temperatures, manages to somehow balance a bit against that sweetness, as does the mild bitter finish. Even with these small caveats, Bøvelen is an excellent representation of an abbey tripel and easily deserving of its outstanding NORØL ranking. If you like the sweetness of honey with some other nuances tossed in, then I can do nothing else other than recommend trying Kinn’s take on an abbey tripel.

Links


 
Image credits 

Wednesday, February 15, 2012

Kinn: Vestkyst IPA – Remarkably accessible and harmonious


As Norway’s westernmost town, Florø’s coastal setting and lively atmosphere makes it one of most attractive places to visit in western Norway. With a population that barely breaches 10,000, Florø is the home to fish processing, shipbuilding, petroleum, and, with the 2009 opening of Kinn, brewing can now be added to that list. Congratulations Florø, for Vestkyst IPA is testament to Kinn’s attention to quality and perfection, and their ability to make beers that rival many of the brews from the more ‘matured’ breweries around.

The word Kinn (literally cheek) is the name given to one of the outermost islands that buffers Florø from the open sea (see map to the right), although it was also the name of an earlier municipality that was eventually merged into the surrounding municipalities. I can only speculate that the place name “Kinn” might be attributed to the fact that area forms the westernmost point, or “cheek”, of Norway’s coastline, although this again is only speculation on my part.

Kinn brewery makes about six different beers – all of which are remarkably wonderful concoctions. Kinn takes a rather traditional approach to beer-making by using open fermentation tanks and an English handpump to tap the beer. Brew master Espen Lothe also bares his grounded philosophy to brewing when commenting that “my job is not to make beer, but to help the yeast cells to produce beer” (Dagbladet). Lothe’s approach and philosophy are undoubtedly causes for Kinn’s remarkable brewing success.

Vestkyst (literally west coast) IPA is simply amazing, and is a must try for IPA lovers. Popping the cork immediately releases the sweet smells of a well-hopped ale that’s ambitious to please its drinker. Pouring Vestkyst into a glass reveals a hazy amber-colored body and fluffy off-white head, although I expected it to tower a bit more than what it did. Giving the glass a generous swirl yields a tight and sticky, web-like lacing matrix. Aroma? Think pineapple and resin, but with distinct tones from the malt, most notably caramel. 

Vestkyst’s mouthfeel is pleasant and pretty faithful to this particular style – smooth, well carbonated with a medium-light body. Taking a generous mouthful brings out a wonderful array of flavors, including the more prominent tastes of grapefruit, pine, and the deliciousness of mango. The malt support, especially the caramel flavor, is perhaps a bit too forward for an IPA, but it blends rather harmoniously with the surrounding flavors, giving is a level of accessibility that is surprisingly high for an IPA. But, not to be let down, Vestkyst delivers a powerfully dry and punchy bitter finish that speaks volumes to the quality of this IPA.

All-in-all, Vestkyst testifies to Kinn’s attention to quality and perfection, and their ability to make beers that rival some many of the brews from the more ‘matured’ breweries around – quite remarkable for such a young brewery. While the malt flavors are perhaps a bit too forward for an IPA, the complexity of flavors blends together with a remarkable level of harmony and accessibility. In fact, if I wanted to turn someone on to IPAs, Kinn’s Vestkyst might very well be the one I’d choose to use.

Links


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Sunday, February 12, 2012

Nøgne Ø: Two Captains – Still Defying the Laws of Gravity

If you’ve read some of my previous posts here, you might remember coming across a rather brief review of Two Captains, an outstanding double IPA brewed by Nøgne Ø. After recently drinking a bottle that’s been cellaring for some time, I realized that my previous post really failed to do justice to Nøgne Ø’s Two Captains. So, typed up a new and more detailed review about the product as a whole. Indeed, Nøgne Ø’s Two Captains definitely falls within my top-ten list of favorite double IPAs, and if you try it, I think you will understand why.

The typical first encounter with Nøgne Ø’s Two Captains will immediately confront the distinctiveness of the company’s bold orange “Ø” surrounded by a white label attached to a half-liter brown bottle. Stamped with the same “Ø”, the cap is as distinctive as the label. For those of you unfamiliar with Scandinavian languages, the “ø” or “slashed o” as it is sometimes called, is a letter reserved for the Norwegian and Danish alphabets. Ø is used to represent close-mid front rounded sounds (the closest English comes to this is the vowel sound in bird, although that ‘s still pretty far off).

Compared to the raw simplicity and austerity of Nøgne Ø’s other labels, the “Ø” on the Two Captain’s label is juxtaposed over a late 1940s to early 50s American piston engine fighter plane – the F-82 Twin Mustang. At first glance, it looks like two planes, but as shown in the picture to the right, the F-82 is actually two P-51 Mustangs joined together in a rather successful effort to build a long-range escort fighter at the end of World War II. One might think that “Two Captains” is a reference to the twin boom plane illustrated on the label. However, both the name and the label are references to Jan Halvor Fjeld, an SAS captain who originally concocted this brew, and Kjetil Jikiun, Nøgne Ø’s head brewer as well as a captain for SAS – hence not just one, but two Captains.

In my opinion, Nøgne Ø probably brews Norway’s most exiting line of products, although Ægir and Kinn are close rivals. Hailing from Gimstad, which is a coastal town on the southeastern tip of Norway, Nøgne Ø produces about 17 year-round products, including Two Captains. Adding to this another dozen or so seasonal and specialty beers, each with a ceaseless array of well-balanced subtle and aggressive qualities, yields a rather long list of top-notch brews. And Nøgne Ø Two Captains is emblematic of the brewery’s attention to both subtly and aggressiveness, with the balance in favor of the aggressive side of beer.

Life in the glass begins with the aggressive head that just keeps defying the laws of gravity, and a wonderful copper-colored appearance so characteristic of robust double IPAs. The three-finger head is fluffy, rocky, and well retained, giving way to a tight and sticky lacing matrix. Two Captain’s aroma is complex and – aside from the florally and hoppy scents – sort of hard to pin down at first. Faint earthy smells accompany the scents of orange and maybe peach. The aggressive scents of pine and grapefruit predict the rather bitter taste to come. In short, Nøgne Ø brewed some serious nose candy with this one.

With an 8.5 percent ABV, the taste of Two Captains continues to show this ale’s aggressiveness, revealing a mixture of flavors that closely match the aroma. Tropical fruits, especially lemon and grapefruit, are prominent and nicely supported by sweet malt and caramel. The faint alcohol taste is more prominent as the temperature warms a bit. This thing is hop heaven and, at 100 IBU’s, it’s amazingly bitter. That said, Two Captains has a bitterness that lacks the burning sensation that one gets from other similarly styled ales: The bitterness here is smoother and more elegant.

Overall, Two Captains is as aggressive as the two Rolls-Royce Merlin V-12 engines that powered the some of the earlier F-82s. While the malt presence is perhaps a bit too forward for a double IPA, the malt clearly adds to the beer’s smoothness and complexity, making it one of the most tasty double IPAs around.

Links
Nøgne Ø, Two Captains on Ratebeer.com
Nøgne Ø, Two Captains on Beeradvocate
Nøgne Ø, Two Captains official site

Image credits
Cardinal Pub
Wikipedia
Kjempetorskens Øl Blogg

Wednesday, January 18, 2012

Haandbryggeriet: Haandbic - Flavorful, aromatic and daring

Haandbic is Haandbryggeriet’s daring shot at making a lambic-styled beer, in this case an unblended (I suppose) fruit lambic. Haandbic, however, is not quite a lambic per se insofar as it is not produced through spontaneous fermentation. As Beer Chef Blog points out, Haandbic is instead a “wild” ale, “which means the brewers have intentionally introduced [italics my own] rogue bacteria into the beer…” – most likely from yeasts like Saccharomyces, Brettanomyces, Pediococcus, and/or Lactobacillus.

Haandbic’s unique flavors clearly come from being aged in oak barrels for nearly 18 months and being brewed with red currents and lingonberry (otherwise known as cowberry). These berries impart a rather tart taste, which blends well with the sourness that comes from wild yeasts. Overall, Haandbryggeriet’s Haandbic is a relatively flavorful and aromatic wild ale, although cellaring it for a few more years would probably give it a better balance and greater complexity.

Hailing from Drammen, Norway – about a half-hour drive to the south of Oslo, Haandbryggeriet is run by four guys that, according to their website, are “enthusiastic about beer”. Indeed, they have to be: Their brewery is essentially run in their spare time and on a volunteer basis. This enthusiasm shows in the rather long list of 24 different brews they make. While some of their products have not been big hits with me personally, Haandbryggeriet demonstrates a tremendous interest in experimentation, as exemplified by Haandbic’s daring side.

Haandbic starts off with a rather timid head in that it had virtually none – a characteristic that is not necessarily a bad thing for unblended lambics or wild ales. Hence, it should be no surprise when finding the side of the glass almost completely devoid of lacing. With a translucent reddish-orange color in the context of a dimly lit room, Haandbic’s body to me did not look fundamentally different than red wine.

The aroma is potent and relatively complex, characterized by the predominance of oak accompanied by the smells of berries, vinegar, and a touch of vanilla perhaps. When compared to all the other qualities had by Haandbic, the aroma is definitely the most enjoyable, although the berry note was not as prominent as what I would have expected from a fruit lambic. While we differ a bit on the various smells, Beer Chef Blog’s description is very thorough: “The aroma reminds me of a hospital…autoclaved this and that mixed with some antiseptic and rubbery notes all swirled into [the] smells of peaches, wet wood, damp forest and black peppercorn spiciness”. Well said!

The aroma accurately predicts the taste. It starts off with a strong, but brief semi-sweet berry flavor that quickly descends into the more familiar wild ale flavors. However, the strong oak and smoky flavors seem to moderate the sourness a bit. Vinegar notes are present, along with the tell-tale funk from the Brettanomyces yeast. Again, flavors from the berries – which should have been a feature flavor – were a bit weak on my palate at least. The finish is relatively tart and dry, and the mouthfeel is medium with little to no carbonation – again, it feels a bit like wine really.

All in all, I expected more berries on the nose and the palate. That said, the oak note is obvious and interesting when juxtaposed on the tart and moderately funky background. The appearance is nothing exciting, although consistent with what might be expected from some unblended lambics or wild ales. I certainly recommend trying Haandbryggeriet’s Haandbic if for no other reason than to experience its originality and daring side.


Links

Haandbryggeriet Haandbic on Beer Chef Blog

Haandbic at Haandbryggeriet

Haandbryggeriet Haandbic on BeerAdvocate

Haandbryggeriet Haandbic on Ratebeer.com

Image credits

Bernt Rostad
 


Saturday, January 14, 2012

Ringnes: Julebokk 9% - There, I've said it!

Finally! By the middle of January, 2012, I am finally getting around to writing a review on what I consider to be a very tasty 9 percent julebokk (Christmas Bock) brewed by Ringnes – the largest brewery operating in Norway. So there, I’ve said it! I am quite fond of a beer that is produced by a macro-brewery – one owned by Carlsberg no less. I know that might be taboo for some, but reviewing beer is just that: trying to, as objectively as possible, write a few words on how the beer lives up to its style aspirations and, as subjectively as possible, write a few words about how the beer suited one’s particular tastes. I’ll leave the politics of macro- versus micro-breweries and craft versus industrial brewing to other blog posts.

Let me start with a bit of background. Ringnes brewery is located in Oslo, Norway’s capital and largest city. Bought out by the Carlsberg Group starting in 1997, Ringnes manufactures and bottles products like beer, soda, and bottled water, including well-known names like Solo, Farris, Pepsi, and 7Up, along with a variety of different beer consisting of a wide range of quality levels. Ringnes also partially or fully owns a number of other breweries, including Arendals in Arendal and Dahls in Trondheim, and produces beer under the Frydenlund label.

Now let me say a few words about Ringnes Julebokk 9 percent. For starters, Julebokk’s appearance is very impressive: The light-brown head is robust and resilient, the lacing is reasonably dense and sticky, and the body is a super-dark brown surrounded by medium-brown edges. As for the nose, a slightly burned coffee aroma is definitely prominent, but it leaves space for caramel, raisins, and a hint of booze. On a slightly negative note, the burned aromatics are unsuitable for what is essentially a doppelbock.

The mouthfeel is pleasant and pretty faithful to this particular style – smooth, medium, and only moderately carbonated. Taking a generous mouthful reveals a wonderful array of flavors, including, raisins, caramel, and malt. Once again, burned coffee is prominent, making it very tasty, but a bit off the mark for a doppelbock. The finish is slightly bitter and delivers a reasonably strong alcohol punch, especially at higher temperatures.

All-in-all, I find Ringnes Julebokk to be a wonderful tasting beer with some very noble qualities. I look forward to buying up a few of these brews next year. That said, it’s burned aromatics and flavor is a bit off the mark for this particular style, although it is a Christmas beer, so considerable latitude should be given. On a similar note, there’s nothing truly Christmassy about this julebokk. While the label lays claim to some spices, none were detectable in the aroma or the taste. But Ringnes Julebokk is still great treat during the holiday season.

Links

Ringnes Julebokk 9% on Ratebeer.com

Ringnes Julebokk 9% StoreMys Lille Øl-Blogg (Norwegian only)

Image Credits

BA

Sunday, January 1, 2012

Haandbryggeriet: Fyr og Flamme – A nearly perfect resinous and piney IPA


Hailing from Drammen, Norway, about a half-hour drive south of Oslo, Haandbryggeriet brews a very creative line of products, although not all of them have been big hits with me personally. But Fyr og Flamme (to be excited, lit. fire and flame) is an awesome brew – one that captures a lot of the essence of what an IPA should be. For starters, the head nearly explodes out of the glass when pouring Fyr og Flamme, although the head level is totally controllable with a delicate pour (unlike their Nissemor that I recently reviewed). The creamy white head quickly settles to a drinkable level, leaving a beautiful lacing matrix and a translucent amber body topped by a well retained white cap. Overall, the appearance predicts a top-notch, highly refreshing IPA.

The aroma is all business, mostly hops, and totally awesome: Smells of pine and resin dominate, but are also accompanied by a grapefruit-like context. Malt references are present, but difficult to discern, which perhaps detracts just a bit from Fyr og Flamme’s overall appeal, at least for me. It’s also perhaps a bit less florally when compared to other IPAs, but bouquet notes are definitely present. The aroma accurately predicts the taste: The assertive piney and resinous taste is supported by a lighter citrusy background and some spicy notes. Again, malt references are difficult to pin down. The finish is sufficiently bitter and somewhat dry. The mouthfeel is medium-bodied, with generous amounts of carbonation. 

Overall, Fyr og Flamme does a remarkable job when presenting itself. It’s a near perfect representation of what a resinous and piney IPA should be like and exemplifies Haandbryggeriet’s capacity to turnout some amazingly complex and well-balanced brews. If you like IPAs, I can promise you that Fyr og Flamme will not disappoint you.

Links


Image credits

Bernt Rostad

Thursday, December 29, 2011

Grans: Julebrygg – One of life’s amusing contradictions


Sometimes life’s surprises are amusing in a contradictory sort of way. And for me at least, drinking Grans Julebrygg is one of those occasions. As a background to those unfamiliar with Grans products, the company is one of Norway’s larger beverage producers and well…their beers can be total drain pours (see my Ratebeer rating for Grans Lade Gaards Mørk Lager). But Grans Julebrygg is a definite hit and, in my opinion, one of the most flavorful low ABV Christmas beers put out by a Norwegian macro-brewery. As Ratebeer’s ClubGonzo rightfully points out, Grans Julebrygg is “a definite Christmas beer by Scandinavian standards, while still being very original in style, compared to the Norwegian market”. 

The Julebrygg experience begins with a dark amber color and a robust, foamy beige head. Wow, the lacing is solid! Is this really a Grans product? Giving it a whiff reveals a powerful array of sweet malts, caramel, and lots of raisins – certainly more potent than other julebryggs out there. Is ask again, is this really a Grans product? Overall, the taste pretty well balanced and closely resembles the aroma; Lots of dried fruit – primarily raisins, along with some bready, malty, and caramel flavors. The mouthfeel is a bit too watery for a julebrygg, although the carbonation is pretty active.

So, finally, I’ve found a Grans product that I can actually drink, but also one that I can thoroughly enjoy and for a reasonable price.  Overall, Grans Julebrygg is a really good value and an amusing contradiction to some of their other products.

Links

 
Grans Bryggeri: http://www.grans.no/

Image credits


Tuesday, December 27, 2011

Berentsens: Jule Avec – A serious holiday treat from a maker of many things


Located in Egersund, a small fishing town on the southern tip of Norway, Berentsens manufactures a variety of beverages like soda, apple cider, and of course beer. Jule Avec is the first Berenstens brew I’ve sampled, although I do have one of their intimidating 19 percent ABV Christmas beers maturing in the cellar. At 9 percent ABV, Jule Avec (2011 sample) is a remarkably flavorful beer, with substantial amounts of complexity and balance. 

The body appears with a super dark brown tone and a sizable, fluffy tan head. Being dense and clingy, the lacing suggests a very serious Christmas beer, which indeed it is. The aroma is a relatively rich blend of sweet malts and dark fruits, most notably raisins. The taste is largely sweet, with references to chocolate, caramel, and again lots of raisins. Given the 9 percent ABV, I was surprised to find no clear reference to booze, although it was a bit noticeable after some warming. The body is medium with a syrupy mouthfeel and a somewhat dry finish.

If you have the chance to try this, I definitely recommend taking it. Comparatively speaking, it’s reasonably priced, potent, and very tasty certainly one of the better Christmas brews out there, and it’s brewed by a company that doesn’t even specialize in beer.
On a separate note, Berentsens has a pretty nice description of the history of beer in Norway, although it’s written in Norwegian (see last link below).

Links

 
Berentsens Brygghus: http://www.berentsens.no
 

Image credits


Monday, December 26, 2011

Ægir: Natt Imperial Porter – A testimony to excellence and elegance


Ægir’s brewery is nestled in the tiny and majestic fjord town of Flåm, Norway, and the brewery’s arrival to the scene there really completed Flåm as an attractive tourist destination. Ægir’s brews are noteworthy for their subtleness; indeed, it often takes a very perceptive palate to identify all the particularities in Ægir’s flavor complexes, as compared to Nøgne Ø’s more “in your face” approach, or so it seems. Both qualities are good, but this difference is why I sometimes prefer Nøgne Ø’s brews: You don’t have to work as hard to draw out and identify the different tastes. 

I’ve managed to sample Natt Imperial Port on three separate occasions, and this brew just seems to taste better and better over time. Like other Ægir products, Natt’s characteristics are subtle and delicate; they threaten to escape the attention of a causal drinker. In my view, this is one of the best Ægir products and is probably in my list of top five beers I’ve tasted in 2011. Life in the glass starts with a dark brown – almost black – color with a small but well retained tan head. The lacing is tight and sticky, although the most recent sample I’ve had was a bit weak in the lacing. 

Generally speaking, Natt Imperial Porter’s aroma is not amazingly powerful, but is instead loaded with subtle complexities, including faint hints of licorice, chocolate, berries, sweet malt, and more. But coffee seems to be a dominant aroma. The creamy mouthfeel and generous carbonation are accompanied by a variety of flavors, notably coffee, toffee, caramel, and licorice. There’s a wonderfully bitter climax right before the finish, leading to nutty and licorice flavors that seem to linger on for a few minutes while competing for the palate’s attention. What’s surprising about this is how easy it is to drink, largely due to the virtual absence of any alcohol taste, despite its 10 percent ABV. Natt Imperial Porter does lose some of its balance as the temperature exceeds 12 Celsius (54 f) and the alcohol flavor comes alive.

Overall, Natt Imperial Porter is a testimony to Ægir’s crafting excellence and elegance. While its price is awfully high, I strongly recommend sampling this. But do so with the expectation of having to work a bit to sort out the aromas and tastes. 

Links

 

Image credits

 

Nøgne Ø: Underlig Jul – Mild, spicy, Christmassy


There’s just something so cozy about drinking dark Norwegian beer at 60 degrees north in Norway during the holiday season, amid falling snow and Santa. Well, for those familiar with this part of the world, you’ll surely know that the latter two are really the stuff for postcards rather than winter’s windy and wet reality. But Nøgne’s Underlig Jul really warms things up, and it may make the holidays more enjoyable (or at least bearable for those holiday skeptics).

While the name, which means curious or strange Christmas, suggests something highly unique, I found nothing truly original in Nøgne’s Ungerlig Jul. It’s malty, spicy, and well balanced in ways not much different than many other Christmas beers out there. Like other Christmas beers, Underlig Jul is a real treat. Life outside the snowflake speckled bottle begins with a dark reddish-brown color and a robust, foamy beige head. The lacing is a bit runny, but dense nonetheless. Giving it a whiff reveals roasted malts, licorice, and some Christmassy spices like ginger and cinnamon in the background. Overall, the taste closely resembles the aroma. Underlig Jul finishes dry and relatively bitter, and the spices leave a faint tingling sensation. 

This is a pretty solid Christmas brew, although not as complex as Nøgne’s God Jul. The label on the bottle suggests trying it with “traditional Christmas cookies” and that is certainly the right thing to do, especially with ginger snaps.

Links

 
Nøgne Ø, Underlig Jul: http://www.nogne-o.com/seasonal-beers/underlig-jul.html

Image credits

Suregork Loves Beer: http://beer.suregork.com
  

Sunday, December 25, 2011

Ægir: God Jul (7 percent ABV) – Subtle and delicate


Ægir’s brewery is nestled in the tiny and majestic fjord town of Flåm, Norway, and the brewery’s arrival to the scene there really completed Flåm as an attractive tourist destination. Ægir’s brews are noteworthy for their subtleness; indeed, it often takes a very perceptive palate to identify all the particularities in Ægir’s flavor complexes, as compared to Nøgne Ø’s more “in your face” approach, or so it seems. Both qualities are good, but this difference is why I sometimes prefer Nøgne Ø’s brews: You don’t have to work as hard to draw out and identify the different tastes. 

So, on Christmas Eve, my wife and I decided to take some time to enjoy an Ægir God Jul 7 percent ABV version, and what a treat this one is. Life in the glass begins with a dark amber pour, culminating in a tall and well-retained off-white head. Rolling it around in the glass produces a matrix of sticky laces. In terms of appearance, Ægir’s God Jul is a very attractive brew. 

Taking a whiff reveals a very subtle and Christmassy aroma with an ample amount of complexity: think orange peel, bubblegum, and a hint of spice. The alcohol presence becomes more distinct as the beer warms. The mouthfeel is oily, with medium carbonation. On the palate, the flavors are again very subtle and one has to work a bit to separate them. Bubblegum and orange peel are definitely front and center, followed by some sort of Christmassy spice. The finish is dry, slightly bitter with just a touch of warmth from the alcohol. As the beer’s temperature rises a bit, the orange peel seems to transition into more of a banana flavor, as identified by a number of others on Ratebeer. However, the increased temperature also throws off the balance, making the finish a bit too bitter and boozy to adequately compliment the other flavors. So, be sure to drink this thing at around 8 to 10 Celsius (46-50 f). 

Overall, Ægir’s God Jul rivals any of the Christmas beer’s I’ve sampled this year. It’s highly complex, but in a subtle and delicate manner. In contrast to some of the other Christmas beers I’ve had, the spicy background in God Jul’s aroma and taste really gives it a holiday feel without undermining some of the other flavors. At the right temperature, it is an incredibly well-balanced brew and I’m happy to have a few of these in the cellar.

Links

 

Saturday, December 24, 2011

Haandbryggeriet: Nissemor – Tasty, but flawed

Scandinavia is home to the origins of Christmas beer, and thankfully, the Vikings that settled in England took that tradition with them. While the origins of “juleøl” are not specifically tied to Christmas, today we associate Christmas beer with darker lagers and stouts, along with the smells and tastes of ginger and cinnamon, to name a few. And there’s just something so cozy about drinking strong, dark Scandinavian beers while in Scandinavia during the holiday season. 

Hailing from Drammen, Norway, about a half-hour drive south of Oslo, Haandbryggeriet brews a very creative line of products, although not all of them have been big hits with me personally. Nissemor (literally mother Santa) indeed captures some of the essence of juleøl and the holiday spirit generally. It also captures some of Haandbryggeriet’s creative side as well some of the flaws that sometime come with experimentation. For starters, it was nearly impossible to pour Nissemor without an explosion of foam breaching the rim of the glass. Needless to say, the beige and brown-edged head almost exceeded the boundaries of the “finger” measuring system – certainly a sight to see. It took about five minutes of settling before it was fit to drink. The color is very dark brown. The lacing is as sticky, just as it should be, especially considering the amount of head this thing produces.

The aroma is largely roasted malts accompanied by some yeast references and some Christmassy spices. However, roasted malts seem to be the predominant aroma to the point where some of the underlying nuances of the brew (like the dark fruit additives) are largely masked. As far as the taste is concerned, I found Nissemor to be particularly unbalanced even after it warms up. Again, roasted malts seem to dominate to a fault. It took forever to find any hints of the dark fruit additives to the point where I began to wonder if my brain was just filling in some of the flavors that should have been there. At the same time, some of the dry ginger spiciness comes through in the finish, which really helped to balance out the Nissemor to some extent. The mouth feel is thick with medium carbonation and a distinctively dry finish that really complements the ginger aftertaste. 

Overall, Nissemor is a very unbalanced and overly active brew. That said, I did thoroughly enjoy drinking it largely because I love the taste of roasted malts and ginger. The finish was particular enjoyable. Unfortunately, it is difficult for me to recommend this, given the price and the lack of balance. 

Links

Haandbryggeriet, Nissemor: http://haandbryggeriet.net/Nissemor.html

Image credits


Ægir: Rallar (Amber Ale) – Caramel, apples, dark chocolate and more


“Rallar” is a Norwegian word that was used to describe migrant industrial workers during the 1800s and early 1900s, most notably those that worked on building the railroad line that stretches from Oslo in eastern Norway across the plateaus to reach Bergen on the west coast. The construction road used for building the railroad is called “Rallarvegen”, which today is a well-travelled hiking route. One of the endpoints of “Rallarvegen” is in the majestic fjord town of Flåm, the home to Ægir’s brewery.

The term “Rallar, however, is a sort of curious choice for this fine ale. After all, the price of this beer is far from working class.  But for me, it’s one of the best amber ale’s I’ve had in recent years, and it’s truly a treat for me and anyone who happens to drop in for a visit, although serving too many of these to guests (and to myself) can get expensive. But it’s worth it. 

Life in the glass begins with a medium-brown pour, culminating in a tall and well-retained fluffy off-white head. The lacing is tight and sticky. Taking a whiff reveals a very powerful aroma with an ample amount of complexity given its timid 4.7 percent ABV: think caramel, apples, dark chocolate, and a hint of spice. The mouthfeel is slightly watery and, for the first second or so, there does not seem to be much taste to it aside from a bit of apples perhaps. But, after two to three seconds on the palate, there is a burst of chocolate and caramel that recedes into a nutty and slightly bitter finish. In short, swallowing it too quickly will leave very little in the way of taste. But, letting sit on the palate for a bit really turns this ale into a wonderful treat. Overall, it’s well balanced and a great session beer.

Links


Ægir Brewery: http://www.flamsbrygga.no/en 

Image credits

Cardinal Pub: http://www.cardinal.no/ 

Monday, December 19, 2011

Nøgne Ø: Imperial Stout - Not for the Faint-Hearted


On a few occasions, one encounters an experience so memorable that the senses born out of that experience hold over for weeks – or maybe longer in the case of trauma. Fortunately, experiencing a Nøgne Ø Imperial Stout is simply memorable without being traumatic. And what a wonderful memory this ale can be.

The typical first encounter with Nøgne Ø’s Imperial Stout will immediately confront the simplicity and distinctiveness of the company’s bold purple “Ø” surrounded by a black label attached to a half-liter brown bottle, immediately giving away its Norwegian origins. Stamped with the same “Ø”, the cap is as simple and distinctive as the label. For those you not familiar with Scandinavian languages, the “ø” or “slashed o” as it is sometimes called, is a distinct letter in the Norwegian and Danish alphabets which is used to represent close-mid front rounded sounds (the closest English comes to this is the vowel sound in bird).

In my opinion, Nøgne Ø probably brews Norway’s most exiting line of products, although Ægir and Kinn are close rivals. Hailing from Gimstad, which is a coastal town on the southeastern tip of Norway, Nøgne Ø produces about 17 year-round products, including the Imperial Stout. Adding to this another dozen or so seasonal and specialty beers, each with a ceaseless array of well-balanced subtle and aggressive qualities, yields a rather long list of top-notch brews. And Nøgne Ø Imperial Stout is emblematic of brewery’s attention to both subtly and aggressiveness, with the balance in favor of the aggressive side of beer.

Breaking open the cap releases a welcomed hissing sound and, on a few occasion, the smell of roasted malts might immediately greet the olfactory system. When pouring Nøgne Ø's Imperial Stout into a glass, the pitch black body and thick brown head are signs of what’s to come: roasted malts and a heavy bodied beverage. Tilting the glass slightly will reveal the stout's impressively long-lasting lacing. Aroma? Think chocolate, toffee, vanilla, roasted malts, and a distinct alcohol sting – perhaps a bit too much, especially as it warms. When reviewing Nøgne Ø's Imperial Stout, quite a few folks on ratebeer.com mention dark chocolate and licorice odors, but I’ll just stick with chocolate without the licorice.

The mouth feel and taste(s) are even more impressive than the aroma and appearance. Creamy and oily, the mouth feel is met with some mild carbonation. Taking a generous mouthful reveals a wonderful array of flavors, ranging from mildly sweet chocolate, toffee and roasted malts in the front to slightly bitter and citrusy flavored hops in the finished, marked by a strong alcohol taste – again perhaps a bit too strong.

I feel a warning is in order for those who never had a really good imperial stout. Drinking Nøgne Ø's Imperial Stout is an experiment not to be taken lightly, and if you’re used to lagers or milder ales, you will probably be a bit stunned by this imperial stout’s roasted flavor and high alcohol content, which again is pretty prominent in the taste. I recommend splitting it with a fellow beer explorer who’s up for the challenge. Be sure to finish it, even if you find it rather unpleasant. After all, you probably paid a fortune for it, so be sure to give it a fair shake. While these beers are an acquired taste, most drinkers I know manage to find Nøgne Ø's Imperial Stout to be quite enjoyable even by the end of the first glass.

Links

Nøgne Ø Imperial Stout review on Humle of Malt (Norwegian)

Nøgne Ø Imperial Stout on San Diego Beer Blog

Nøgne Ø Imperial Stout on Ratebeer.com

Nøgne Ø Imperial Stout on BeerAdvocate

Nøgne Ø Imperial Stout on  brewery's site

Additional information

Stouts on Wikipedia


Image Credits

International Beer Shop

Thursday, December 15, 2011

Nøgne Ø: God Jul – A Holiday Icon


There’s just something so cozy about drinking strong, dark Norwegian beer at 60 degrees north in Norway during the holiday season, amid falling snow and Santa. Well, for those familiar with this part of the world, you’ll surely know that the latter two are really the stuff for postcards rather than winter’s harsh and wet reality. But Nøgne’s God Jul is as real as it gets, and if you have the chance to try this 8.5 percent ABV pleasure, I strongly recommend jumping on it. It may make the holidays more enjoyable (or at least bearable for those holiday skeptics).

Life outside the snowflake speckled bottle begins with a robust, foamy beige head that imparts a seriously sticky web of lacing. The aroma is largely coffee with a touch of chocolate, liquorice, and some unidentifiable smoked scents that definitely accentuate Nøgne’s product as a real holiday icon (or at least it should be). Overall, the taste closely resembles the aroma, including the smokiness and some spiciness perhaps, although the alcohol reference was surprisingly strong in the taste. 

Overall, this is an excellent brew – perhaps the best Christmas beer I’ve had so far this year, although BrewDog’s Santa Paws is certainly a closer second. It's leaps and bounds better than their still quite tasty Underlig Jul. God Jul’s distinct smokiness really adds to the holiday spirit, and I will certainly be cracking open one of these on Christmas day. I might even leave one out for Santa…sorry Santa, not a chance!

Tuesday, December 13, 2011

Nøgne Ø: Saison – A Summertime Favorite

Originally brewed in Belgium as mild refreshments for seasonal farm workers, these ales today have a slightly higher alcohol content than those that quenched the thirst of these seasonal works, but they are still ideally suited as refreshments for hot summer days. In my view, and among those posting reviews on ratebeer.com and beeradvocate.com, Nøgne Ø’s Saison is one of the better representations of this beer style. 

If you’ve read my other Nøgne Ø reviews, you’ll know that I’m quite fond of the company’s packaging. The simplicity and distinctiveness of the company’s red “Ø” surrounded by a black label attached to a half-liter brown bottle immediately gives away its Norwegian origins. 

Breaking open the bottle and pouring a glass of this 6.5 percent ABV beverage reveals the ale’s opaque golden color, amazingly well retained head and commendable level of carbonation. The appearance is accompanied by a decent aroma, with hints spices and fruits – notably citrus. The Saison’s taste is similar to the nose, with a medium body peppered by a complexity of sweet fruit and herbal tastes and a somewhat dry mouth feel. The sweetness continues through to the finish, transitioning into a lingering, but ever so mild bitterness. Other tastes can also be found, although I have not found some of those mentioned by other fellow beer fans. One ratebeer.com commenter mentions “an explosion of raspberries”, while another reviewer mentions coriander. A few reviewers on beeradvocate.com mention apples and pears. Given the complexity of the flavoring in Nøgne’s Siason, I am sure you’ll find some if not all of these at some point.

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