Showing posts with label øl. Show all posts
Showing posts with label øl. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 18, 2012

Haandbryggeriet: Haandbic - Flavorful, aromatic and daring

Haandbic is Haandbryggeriet’s daring shot at making a lambic-styled beer, in this case an unblended (I suppose) fruit lambic. Haandbic, however, is not quite a lambic per se insofar as it is not produced through spontaneous fermentation. As Beer Chef Blog points out, Haandbic is instead a “wild” ale, “which means the brewers have intentionally introduced [italics my own] rogue bacteria into the beer…” – most likely from yeasts like Saccharomyces, Brettanomyces, Pediococcus, and/or Lactobacillus.

Haandbic’s unique flavors clearly come from being aged in oak barrels for nearly 18 months and being brewed with red currents and lingonberry (otherwise known as cowberry). These berries impart a rather tart taste, which blends well with the sourness that comes from wild yeasts. Overall, Haandbryggeriet’s Haandbic is a relatively flavorful and aromatic wild ale, although cellaring it for a few more years would probably give it a better balance and greater complexity.

Hailing from Drammen, Norway – about a half-hour drive to the south of Oslo, Haandbryggeriet is run by four guys that, according to their website, are “enthusiastic about beer”. Indeed, they have to be: Their brewery is essentially run in their spare time and on a volunteer basis. This enthusiasm shows in the rather long list of 24 different brews they make. While some of their products have not been big hits with me personally, Haandbryggeriet demonstrates a tremendous interest in experimentation, as exemplified by Haandbic’s daring side.

Haandbic starts off with a rather timid head in that it had virtually none – a characteristic that is not necessarily a bad thing for unblended lambics or wild ales. Hence, it should be no surprise when finding the side of the glass almost completely devoid of lacing. With a translucent reddish-orange color in the context of a dimly lit room, Haandbic’s body to me did not look fundamentally different than red wine.

The aroma is potent and relatively complex, characterized by the predominance of oak accompanied by the smells of berries, vinegar, and a touch of vanilla perhaps. When compared to all the other qualities had by Haandbic, the aroma is definitely the most enjoyable, although the berry note was not as prominent as what I would have expected from a fruit lambic. While we differ a bit on the various smells, Beer Chef Blog’s description is very thorough: “The aroma reminds me of a hospital…autoclaved this and that mixed with some antiseptic and rubbery notes all swirled into [the] smells of peaches, wet wood, damp forest and black peppercorn spiciness”. Well said!

The aroma accurately predicts the taste. It starts off with a strong, but brief semi-sweet berry flavor that quickly descends into the more familiar wild ale flavors. However, the strong oak and smoky flavors seem to moderate the sourness a bit. Vinegar notes are present, along with the tell-tale funk from the Brettanomyces yeast. Again, flavors from the berries – which should have been a feature flavor – were a bit weak on my palate at least. The finish is relatively tart and dry, and the mouthfeel is medium with little to no carbonation – again, it feels a bit like wine really.

All in all, I expected more berries on the nose and the palate. That said, the oak note is obvious and interesting when juxtaposed on the tart and moderately funky background. The appearance is nothing exciting, although consistent with what might be expected from some unblended lambics or wild ales. I certainly recommend trying Haandbryggeriet’s Haandbic if for no other reason than to experience its originality and daring side.


Links

Haandbryggeriet Haandbic on Beer Chef Blog

Haandbic at Haandbryggeriet

Haandbryggeriet Haandbic on BeerAdvocate

Haandbryggeriet Haandbic on Ratebeer.com

Image credits

Bernt Rostad
 


Sunday, January 15, 2012

Mikkeller: USAlive – An even more sensational synthesis

After raving to my friends and writing a blog post about the “sensational synthesis” of Chouffe’s Dobbelen IPA Tripel, quite a few folks recommended Mikkeller’s USAlive as an even better synthesis of the finest traditions of Belgian strong ales and the intensity of American-styled IPA. To those of you who recommended USAlive, your recommendations were spot on: Mikkeller’s USAlive is without a doubt an even better synthesis and one of the best beers I’ve had over the past few months.

While Mikkeller officially hails from Copenhagen, Mikkel Borg Bjergsø, Mikkeller’s brewmaster, manager, et al., brews beer in a variety of locations throughout Europe and the United States. Mikkeller’s USAlive is brewed at De Proefbrouwerij, which lies in a small rural village just a few kilometers northeast of Ghent. What makes USAlive most interesting is Mikkeller’s choice of using Brettanomyces yeast, which imparts a bit of a funky or rough taste. For those of you familiar with different beer brands and styles, but less familiar with yeast strains, Brettanomyces, or “Brett” as it is sometimes called, is commonly found in lambics, and features in other tasty treats like Orval, Liefmans Brown Ale, and Rodenbach Grand Cru.

When tapping USAlive into a glass, the hazy copper color, medium-sized and resilient creamy off-white head, and incredibly dense and sticky lacing are signs of the remarkable level of quality that’s about to come. The aroma has a rather light footprint, but is well-balanced and relatively complex. It’s pretty much what one would expect from a Trappist and an IPA: The piney and slightly florally hop notes from the IPA style and the fruity-sweet notes from the Trappist style battle it out for the drinker’s attention. However, the faint horse blanket note from Brettanomyces delivers a decisive victory for the Trappist style.

USAlive’s aroma more or less predicts the range of tastes to come. It starts out on the sweet side, where the fruity tastes of the Trappist genre play out. Brett makes its appearance about halfway through by bringing in a hint of barnyard funkiness accompanied by a strong grapefruit taste undoubtedly from the hops. The finish is distinctly IPA: intensely bitter and dry, although in this case the bitterness is not nearly as biting as I expected. The mouthfeel is medium and comes with an average amount of carbonation.

Overall, this is a complex and well-balanced synthesis. The various flavors battle it out, but in a way that brings a lot of harmony to the aroma and flavor structure. Both styles – Trappist and IPA – are well represented, with the overall balance favoring the Belgian tradition. Mikkeller’s USAlive certainly reflects Mikkel’s ceaseless capacity to make some of the most interesting, innovative, and complex brews around.

Links

Mikkeller USAlive on Ratebeer

Mikkeller USAlive on BeerAdvocate

Image credits

http://www.jarngler.is/

Monday, January 9, 2012

Nørrebro: New York Lager – Would really love to like it. Maybe next time

Nørrebro is one of the 10 districts that constitute the city of Copenhagen, Denmark’s capital and largest urban center. Nørrebro is also the name of a brewery and restaurant located within that district in what seems to be an almost one-block long and somewhat statist looking red brick building on Ryesgade (Ryes street). Since the brewery first opened in 2003, they have turned out some 28 different beer varieties covering an impressive assortment of different tastes (see Nørrebro's website).

Nørrebro’s New York Lager is a beer that I would really love to like, but find it hard to actually do so. For starters, the timidity of its slightly off-white head was rather disappointing, although it was still well-retained. The translucent copper color is gives Nørrebro’s New York Lager an inviting and refreshing look. The lacing, however, was a bit weak, although sufficient enough to paint the inside of the glass with some sticky suds.

This particular sample is the second time I’ve tried Nørrebro’s New York Lager, and as I remember it, the first sample (taken approximately a year ago) was substantially more aromatic, tasty, and well-balanced. In this second round, the aroma is somewhat weak, but spending a bit of time sniffing it does pay off. Grassy and malty tones are definitely there, along some citrus references most likely from the Cascade hops. 

The overall taste is much like the nose, with hints of malt, vegetables, and citrus fruits, although the malt note should have been a bit more focused for what is essentially a Vienna lager. The mouth feel is watery, and the carbonation is mild. What I found most interesting was that Nørrebro was thoughtful enough to use a Cascade hop, but disciplined enough to use it in moderation. The Cascade’s aromas and flavors were there, but way in the background. Vienna lagers should not have the hoppy bite that sometimes comes with an overly ambitious use of Cascade hops.

However, the finish is way off the mark. What I expected was a sweet malty character that dried out into a soft bitter finish. What I got instead was a weaker than expected malt character that transitioned into a strange, somewhat tangy acidic finish. Given the timidity of its appearance, the rather weak malt character, and the less than appealing finish, I found this particular sample of Nørrebro’s New York Lager to be a bit of a disappointment. That said, I will not suggest avoiding it. I’ve had Nørrebro’s products before and found them to be respectable, including their New York Lager. In fact, I look forward to reviewing it again and hope it performs better than this particular sample.

Links

Nørrebro New York Lager on Ratebeer.com

Image credits

http://kjempetorsken.com/

Sunday, January 8, 2012

The Lost Abbey (Port Brewing): 10 Commandments – God versus Satan, or Conventionalism versus Reformation?

Founded in 2006, The Lost Abbey or Port Brewing is located San Marcos, California – a medium-sized city located about 20 miles (32 km) north of San Diego. The brewery offers about six regular beers, another six seasonal variants, and four of what they refer to as “non-denominational ales” since they do not comport with any known beer style. Hence, not only does The Lost Abbey clearly value a good sense of humor, but their product line appears to reflect a blend of conventionalism and innovation, or perhaps “reformation” of conventional beer styles (see my reviews of Avant Garde and Judgment Day for examples of this point).

The 10 Commandments certainly reflects a duality of conventionalism on one hand and reformation on the other, along with some of the tribulations that come with being innovative. The Lost Abbey brews 10 Commandments by using raisins and sets its sights on producing a Belgian Strong Ale – something akin to Chimay’s Grand Réserve, and The Lost Abbey certainly hits the mark pretty closely with this aspiration. Popping the cork immediately releases the sweet smell of dark fruit. When pouring 10 Commandments into a glass, the dark and slightly reddish-brown body and fluffy beige head are signs of what’s to come: an enticingly sweet beverage with lots to offer its “disciple”. Swirling the glass a bit reveals a decent amount of lacing, but lacing that is slightly less sticky than a Chimay blue. Aroma? Think raisins, plums, spices, booze (lots of it in fact), and maybe a hint of coffee.

The mouthfeel is pleasant and pretty faithful to this particular style – medium and fairly well-carbonated. Taking a generous mouthful reveals a wonderful array of flavors, ranging from raisins, plums, and spices. Once again, I’m finding a slight coffee reference here, but I’m not sure if my palate is really being truthful with this reference. Part of the deceit is perhaps due to the relatively strong alcohol note, which is a bit distracting and somewhat diminishes the overall harmony of the flavors. This is especially true as 10 Commandments warms up, in which case I placed the bottle back in the refrigerator just to tame the devilish alcohol taste a bit. The finish is slightly bitter and really delivers a punch of alcohol, almost like taking a shot of something strong (I rarely do this, so don’t ask me what that something is).

All-in-all, the Chimay Grand Réserve is a decidedly better beer largely because its strong alcohol note blends harmonious with the overall flavor milieu. With the 10 Commandments, it’s kind of like Satan himself is using alcohol to mess with what is otherwise God’s beautiful and harmonious plan for what Belgian strong ales are all about. Indeed, with a 9 percent ABV, I am surprised to find that 10 Commandments is considerably more boozy than The Lost Abbey's 10.4 percent ABV Judgment Day.

That said, The Lost Abbey’s 10 Commandments is still an excellent beer, and considering how young The Lost Abbey is, this ale is absolutely impressive and certainly worth exploring. It’s flavorful, complex, potent, and while the alcohol finish is indeed punchy, it’s also warming and rather enjoyable at lower temperatures. In an alternative to the God versus Satan analogy, the 10 Commandments is perhaps a slight reformation of what Belgian strong ales are all about – a shift from conventional sweetness and complexity into a more aggressive, but still enjoyable alcohol punch at the expense of some harmony.

Links

Image Credits

Anchor: Humming Ale - Nothing else like it, really

Established in San Francisco, Anchor has a long history of beer making, where its name was received as early as 1886 during the heart of California’s legendary Gold Rush. After years of financial hardships and shutdowns during the 1950s and 60s in the face of the large market for light lagers, today Anchor leads the way as one of America’s – and perhaps the world’s – benchmarks for first-class craft brew production (see for example my previous post on Anchor's 2011 Christmas Ale).
In the distant past, the term “humming” was used to describe strong, active ale, and was sometimes attributed to ales using freshly harvested hops. Since humming is a term that describes sounds made by bees or “humming” birds, the use of the word is most likely a reference to the hissing or fizzling sound that the froth may sometimes give off.

Humming ale is effectively based in Anchor’s Liberty Ale, but with some notable differences in the hops. According to Anchor, the Humming Ale’s distinctive flavor comes from New Zealand’s Nelson Sauvin hop, which is known for imparting an intense fruit flavor. And a fruity and distinctive ale this is. But it’s distinctiveness seems to come from the yeast rather than the hops, although it could be from the combination of the two.

Life in the glass begins with a pale golden color, producing a solid standing and an amazingly well-retained “humming” white head and a dense and sticky lacing matrix. The nose of Anchor’s Humming Ale is certainly fruity, but juxtaposed on a background aroma that took some time to place. I eventually concluded with the nose of well-aged cheese – something like Port Salut.  Indeed, no other beer I’ve had produces a nose quite like this one – kind of rough, slightly pungent, but just so wonderfully curious at the same time. Other aromas include grapefruit, lemon, spruce, as well as some florally notes as the Humming Ale warms a bit.

Like the nose, the taste again reveals both potency and complexity. On the palate, that aged-cheese background feels a bit more like a bready background perhaps, peppered with citrus fruits, herbs, and spruce. Humming has plenty of carbonation and a medium body. The surprise comes with the finish, which delivers a respectable dry and bitter “in your face” punch.

Overall, Anchor’s Humming Ale is well-balanced, complex, potent, and seriously dynamic from start to finish. As a bonus, I must say that I have yet to have a beer that smells and tastes quite like this one. To simply recommend the Hummer Ale sells it short; this one is a must try!

Links

Anchor’s Humming Ale on Ratebeer

Anchor Brewing, Humming Ale

Image credits

http://www.selectism.com/

Brasserie d’Achouffe: Houblon Dobbelen IPA Tripel – A sensational synthesis

Founded in 1982, Brasserie Achouffe is located in a small Walloon village also called Achouffe, which lies some 10 kilometers from the Luxembourg border. The brewery offers about eight regular beers, and if you’re a fan of Belgian tripels, then the Houblon Dobbelen IPA Tripel will taste somewhat familiar to you, but with a well-hopped and dry finish. The particular sample I had was in draft form at Baran Café in Bergen, Norway.

When tapping Achouffe’s Houblon into a glass, the semi-translucent gold body and huge rocky white head are signs of what’s to come: an enticingly sweet and slightly thick beverage with lots to offer its client. Tilting the glass slightly reveals the impressively dense and long-lasting lacing. Aroma? Think sweet ripe bananas that smells a bit more like bubble gum as the temperature warms a bit. Milder aromas are also present: Think sweet malts and citrus notes accompanied by an unidentifiable (at least by me) spice. BeerAvocate’s TheBeerAlmanac mentions “clove” and, when juxtaposed with the other aromas, perhaps that accounts for the very subtle spice

Houblon’s mouth feel and taste(s) are just as sensational as the aroma and appearance. The texture is somewhat thick, with very active carbonation. Taking a generous mouthful reveals a sensational flavor matrix, starting with ripe bananas that transitions into what seems to be more of a candyish flavor as the temperature of the beer rises, which also comes with a more distinct boozy finish. Again, citrus and spicy notes are also present in Houblon’s taste. Malty tastes are clearly present, along with flavors from yeast and hops. The finish delivers a dry and powerful bitter punch that reminded me that this is far from a normal Belgian tripel.

All-in-all, Achouffe’s Houblon Dobbelen IPA Tripel is a very well balanced brew, but probably too much malt and not enough hops in the aroma for DIPA. That said, this ale is sensational synthesis and brings some additional aroma and taste combinations into the Belgian Tripel and/or DIPA genres – indeed, I have no idea how to classify this one, but it’s definitely balanced more toward the former. Moreover, while Achouffe is a relatively new addition to the Belgium brewing scene, Houblon demonstrates the brewery’s ability to make a fine tripel on par with some of the country’s oldest establishments. Indeed, Houblon embodies big time flavors from a small town brewery, just as so many of the world’s craft brews do. I will certainly be looking to sample more of their other products (see my previous rating for Achouffe’s N’Ice Chouffe).

Links

Achouffe Houblon on Ratebeer.com

Achouffe Houblon on  BeerAdvocate

Brasserie Achouffe

Image credits

COED Magazine

My own very crappy picture taken at Baran. Can you see the Hansa glass? 

Friday, January 6, 2012

Christmas gifts worth drinking

Finally, after several weeks in the mail, including an unusually long stint in customs in Oslo, the Christmas package from my parents has arrived. And full of holiday cheer it was! Mom’s homemade Christmas cookies (which truly are the world’s best), some of America’s best junk food – e.g. Twizzlers and an assortment of other goodnes), some warm cloths (aka survival gear for the Norwegian winter), and last but not least, beer and beer paraphernalia (which is survival gear of other sorts, I suppose).

First up is the rather intimidating 2 liter growler from Bullfrog Brewery in Williamsport PA that my Dad picked up a few weeks ago while on a holiday. This thing is, by itself, a wonderful addition to my collection of beer-related glassware. But, it might be nice to have some beer in it! If any of my Norwegian readers knows of any relatively nearby breweries – e.g. Kinn, Ægir, Nøgne, Lervig, Haandbryggeriet – that can fill growlers, please drop me a comment.


Second up were four Founders brews that are all just amazing (see my earlier posts on the Founders Porter and the Centennial IPA). The two others are Founders Dirty Bastard Scotch ale and Red Rye pale ale. The rest of the variety pack awaits me in back in the States – that’s another 20 that I so much look forward to. Thanks Dad! And that packing job was serious stuff! Thanks Mom!

So, first up for tonight will be that Founders Porter. Bottoms up!

Sunday, January 1, 2012

Haandbryggeriet: Fyr og Flamme – A nearly perfect resinous and piney IPA


Hailing from Drammen, Norway, about a half-hour drive south of Oslo, Haandbryggeriet brews a very creative line of products, although not all of them have been big hits with me personally. But Fyr og Flamme (to be excited, lit. fire and flame) is an awesome brew – one that captures a lot of the essence of what an IPA should be. For starters, the head nearly explodes out of the glass when pouring Fyr og Flamme, although the head level is totally controllable with a delicate pour (unlike their Nissemor that I recently reviewed). The creamy white head quickly settles to a drinkable level, leaving a beautiful lacing matrix and a translucent amber body topped by a well retained white cap. Overall, the appearance predicts a top-notch, highly refreshing IPA.

The aroma is all business, mostly hops, and totally awesome: Smells of pine and resin dominate, but are also accompanied by a grapefruit-like context. Malt references are present, but difficult to discern, which perhaps detracts just a bit from Fyr og Flamme’s overall appeal, at least for me. It’s also perhaps a bit less florally when compared to other IPAs, but bouquet notes are definitely present. The aroma accurately predicts the taste: The assertive piney and resinous taste is supported by a lighter citrusy background and some spicy notes. Again, malt references are difficult to pin down. The finish is sufficiently bitter and somewhat dry. The mouthfeel is medium-bodied, with generous amounts of carbonation. 

Overall, Fyr og Flamme does a remarkable job when presenting itself. It’s a near perfect representation of what a resinous and piney IPA should be like and exemplifies Haandbryggeriet’s capacity to turnout some amazingly complex and well-balanced brews. If you like IPAs, I can promise you that Fyr og Flamme will not disappoint you.

Links


Image credits

Bernt Rostad

Saturday, December 31, 2011

Mikkeller: Beer Geek Breakfast – The other ‘coffee’


While Mikkeller officially hails from Copenhagen, Mikkel Borg Bjergsø, Mikkeller’s brewmaster, manager, et al., brews beer in a variety of locations throughout Europe and the United States. Mikkeller’s Beer Geek Breakfast is brewed at Nøgne Ø, which lies in Grimstad – a small rural community along the southern coast of Norway. Both Mikkeller and Nøgne Ø brew some of the finest products in Scandinavia, and I cannot think of more logical collaboration. 

Popping the cap and pouring it into a glass reveals the unmistakable stout signatures: The body appears with a super dark brown color and a dense, medium-sized brown head. Tight and sticky, the lacing says all business. The aroma is an attention getter: The vitalizing smells of coffee, along with sweet malts, brown sugar, and dark chocolate, accompany the Beer Geek Breakfast nose. The same can be applied to the taste: Roasted coffee clearly dominates (perhaps a bit too much), but is supported by faint hints of chocolate, roasted malts, oats, and some smoky notes that transition into a slightly bitter finish. The alcohol is virtually undetectable. Not surprisingly, the mouthfeel is creamy with a mild amount of carbonation. I highly recommend to any stout lover out there.

Links



Image credits

 

Innis and Gunn: Rum Cask Oak Aged Ale – A complexity of sweetness


Brewed by Belhaven, Innis and Gunn’s Rum Cask Oak Aged ale is, in my view, a seriously underrated beer. According to “Larsblog”, Innis & Gunn’s regular Oak Aged edition “has met with a divided reception among beer enthusiasts”, and I assume this applies to the rum cask edition as well. Whatever the case may be, I found Innis and Gunn’s Rum Cask Oak Aged ale really fun to drink, and I highly recommend it to any sweet tooth out there.

The body appears as a delicious looking mahogany color. In terms of head, well…there’s not much to speak of really: It’s tiny and short lived, which has been my experience with their other oak aged products. The lacing is a bit thin and runny as well. But, the aroma and taste make up for whatever is lacking in the head and lacing. Taking a whiff uncovers a complexity of sweetness: Vanilla, baby bananas, oak, and a touch of rum seem to culminate in an overarching aroma that reminds me of something like butterscotch. Innis and Gunn really concocts a wonderful treat for the nose with this rum cask version. The taste is much like the aroma. It starts out sweet – almost like candy, dissipates into a variety of flavors like vanilla, bananas, and rum, and then coalesces into a sort of butterscotch kick. Overall, however, the vanilla taste and aroma are (thankfully) more reserved than their standard, but still enjoyable, oak aged version. In fact, the synthetic feel of the vanilla focus in the standard version is what some people don’t like about it. The finish in the rum cask version is sweet, spicy and just a tad boozy, while the mouthfeel is slightly watery with average carbonation. 

The casking process used by Innis and Gunn is interesting and somewhat laborious. Again, “Larsblog” provides a detailed description of how this beer is casked.

Links



Image credits

Beer Street Journal: http://beerstreetjournal.com/



Thursday, December 29, 2011

Grans: Julebrygg – One of life’s amusing contradictions


Sometimes life’s surprises are amusing in a contradictory sort of way. And for me at least, drinking Grans Julebrygg is one of those occasions. As a background to those unfamiliar with Grans products, the company is one of Norway’s larger beverage producers and well…their beers can be total drain pours (see my Ratebeer rating for Grans Lade Gaards Mørk Lager). But Grans Julebrygg is a definite hit and, in my opinion, one of the most flavorful low ABV Christmas beers put out by a Norwegian macro-brewery. As Ratebeer’s ClubGonzo rightfully points out, Grans Julebrygg is “a definite Christmas beer by Scandinavian standards, while still being very original in style, compared to the Norwegian market”. 

The Julebrygg experience begins with a dark amber color and a robust, foamy beige head. Wow, the lacing is solid! Is this really a Grans product? Giving it a whiff reveals a powerful array of sweet malts, caramel, and lots of raisins – certainly more potent than other julebryggs out there. Is ask again, is this really a Grans product? Overall, the taste pretty well balanced and closely resembles the aroma; Lots of dried fruit – primarily raisins, along with some bready, malty, and caramel flavors. The mouthfeel is a bit too watery for a julebrygg, although the carbonation is pretty active.

So, finally, I’ve found a Grans product that I can actually drink, but also one that I can thoroughly enjoy and for a reasonable price.  Overall, Grans Julebrygg is a really good value and an amusing contradiction to some of their other products.

Links

 
Grans Bryggeri: http://www.grans.no/

Image credits


Founders: Porter – From USA to Norway, in a suitcase


Since their 1997 debut, Founders has grown to demonstrate their seriousness about brewing first-class beer, as seen in the brewery’s rising status on BeerAdvocate and Ratebeer. Indeed, I have yet to encounter a Founders beer that says anything otherwise. All told, their Grand Rapids brewery crafts about five year-round products and eight or so seasonal and specialty brews. And Founder’s Porter is, without a doubt, one of the best porters around and, in my view, their flagship product.

Founders Porter is one of the 15 beers that I legally brought back to Norway with me during a recent trip to the US. I had large volumes of this porter during my trip, so perhaps from being under the influence of jet lag, I decided to give my bottle to a close friend who’s a big Guinness Draught fan. After tasting this porter, he has not only become a Founders fan (and routinely asks me about what I might bring with me after the next return home from the US), but he has also begun to look beyond the rim of the Guinness can in search for new beer experiences (note to Founders, you will certainly have a generous market here in Norway).

Life outside the bottle begins with a modest and bubbly light brown head and a super dark brown color  – an unmistakable porter indeed. The lacing clings to the side of the glass as if it was fighting for its life, which in a sense I suppose it is. Powerful and faithful to the style, the porter’s aroma comes with a coffee focused nose, accompanied by discernable notes of chocolate, roasted malts, and caramel. The carbonation is low, with a smooth and creamy mouthfeel. The taste is awesome: sweet and malty in the start and transitioning to a faintly bitter finish. There’s definitely something smoky to the flavor – smoked ham perhaps. And the 6.5 percent ABV speaks volumes about Founders’ seriousness with this porter.

So, if you have the chance to sample this, I’d definitely jump on it, but please don’t ask me to bring one back from the states. I have sampled few porters that have a level of complexity and flavor that rivals Founders Porter. 

Links



Image credits



Founders: Centennial IPA – A first-class and approachable IPA


Since their 1997 debut, Founders has grown to demonstrate their seriousness about brewing first-class beer, as seen in the brewery’s rising status on BeerAdvocate and Ratebeer. Indeed, I have yet to encounter a Founders beer that says anything otherwise. All told, their Grand Rapids brewery crafts about five year-round products and eight or so seasonal and specialty brews. And Founder’s Centennial IPA is, without a doubt, one of the best IPAs around.

Life outside the bottle begins with a huge creamy slightly off-white head and a translucent orange color  – a perfect representation of what an IPA should look like. The lacing clings to the side of the glass long after the beer has vanished. Powerful and faithful to the style, Centennial’s aroma comes with the predictable pine, flowers, and citrus fruit notes, along with definite hint of malts that nicely compliments the hoppy nose. The carbonation is robust, with a medium body. Not surprisingly, the taste is hop forward. However, generous support is provided by some of noticeable malty notes that trade in some of the bitterness for complexity. Citrusy flavors dominate, followed by some grainy, earthy, and bready tones. The finish delivers a lasting bitter punch, but overall, this is an amazingly well-balanced and easy to approach IPA. And the 7.2 percent ABV speaks volumes about Centennial’s seriousness.

So, if you have the chance to sample this, I’d definitely go with it, even if IPAs are not your favorite style. It’s well balanced and far more complex than many IPAs out there, but with a bit less of bite as well.

Links



Image credits

Wednesday, December 28, 2011

Lancaster Brewing Company: Boss Hop Double IPA – In your face


Lancaster Brewing Company is located in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, a small city smack in the middle of the world’s second largest concentration of Amish (Holmes Country, Ohio is the largest). Over the years, I suppose I’ve tried nearly everything Lancaster produces – both in bottle and draft. Overall, their products are hits or misses of sorts, but nothing too terribly exiting or terribly terrible. But Boss Hop Double IPA sort of debunks that experience. 

Overall, Boss Hop is an outstanding DIPA, a fact that I have come to appreciate after several different samples. Indeed, my first impression of Boss Hop left me wanting more, and I found more after several samples over time. Life in the glass begins with a hazy amber color, producing a solid standing white head with tight and sticky lacing. The nose is all hops, as the name suggests: sweet, with florally, mildly fruity, and piney aromas, accompanied by a faint earthiness. Like the nose, Boss Hop’s taste is all hops: It starts out sweet, with notes of pine and tropical fruits that transition into a dry and “in your face” hoppy finish, just as it should be. It’s seriously aggressive, relatively complex, and an attractive sight as it sits in the glass – definitely worth the time.

Links

 
Lancaster Brewing Company: http://www.lancasterbrewing.com/

Tuesday, December 27, 2011

Mikkeller: Spontanale (lambic gueuze) – Love it, hate it, but certainly try it.


While Mikkeller officially hails from Copenhagen, Mikkel Borg Bjergsø, Mikkeller’s brewmaster, manager, et al., brews beer in a variety of locations throughout Europe and the United States. Mikkeller’s Spontanale is brewed at De Proefbrouwerij, which lies in a small rural village just a few kilometers northeast of Ghent. You might say that this site is a bit off the mark for brewing what is essentially a lambic gueuze – a style traditionally brewed in Belgium’s Senne Valley, where the “wild” yeasts from the Senne River, along with wild yeasts lurking within the brewery, spontaneously feed on the sugar-rich worts of some of the region’s finest breweries. This process gives rise to those sour, cidery, and super dry lambic beers that people love, hate, or have yet to try. My particular encounter with Spontanale was with a friend, and we both arrived at similar conclusions: While Boon, Cantillon, and Lindemans brew measurably better lambics, Mikkeller’s Spontanale is a damn good attempt at making what some see as the most complex, if not funky and offensive beers around. 

Popping the cork and pouring it into a glass reveals the unmistakable lambic signatures: The body appears as a translucent amber color with a rather large, fluffy, slightly off-white head. The lacing is a bit thin and runny, which seems to be the case with most lambics I’ve tried. The aroma slaps you in the face even when sitting a meter or so away from the glass. For Spontanale, the nose is a bit less “wild” than some of the more robust lambics out there. To be sure, the pungent smells of barnyard, vinegar, wet hay, horse blanket, etc. accompany Spontanale’s nose, but it’s certainly far less aggressive than a Cantillon gueuze, for example. The same can be applied to the taste: While the sourness is aggressive, it has less potential to offend, disgust, and sicken; amaze, arouse, and instigate; or amuse, enchant, and gratify when compared to that same Cantillon. Not surprisingly, the mouthfeel comes with lots of carbonation, and the finish is quite dry, as with any respectable lambic.

I certainly recommend trying Spontanale if for no other reason than to show your support for Mikkel’s ceaseless capacity to make some of the most interesting, innovative, and complex brews around. If you’ve never tried a lambic, Spontanale might be a nice, somewhat mild and well-balanced introduction to something you will probably either love or hate. But, if you want to dive right into the seriously rougher side of beer, then I do suggest going for the more aggressive Cantillon gueuze instead. 

Links



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Boon: Framboise (fruit lambic) – Fruity Senne Valley funkiness


Lembeek is a small Belgian town that sits about 10 kilometers southwest of Brussels on the border between the country’s Flemish and Walloon regions. In what by now must seem like a small Brussels suburb, Lembeek lies squarely within the heart of Senne Valley, where the wild yeasts from the Senne River, along with wild yeasts lurking within the brewery, spontaneously feed on the sugar-rich worts of some of the region’s finest breweries – a process that gives rise to those sour, cidery, and super dry lambic beers that people love, hate, or have yet to try. Lembeek is also home to Boon Brouwerij, which brews a variety of largely spontaneously fermented beer. Matured in oak barrels, Boon’s Framboise (French for raspberry) is an amazing raspberry blend of old and young lambics. If you are in the “never tried” category, I suggest reading a bit about lambics by checking out the links below and then finding a friend that is brave enough to split one with you. And Boon’s Framboise, with its fruity and funky balance, is a good one to begin with.

My particular sample was a vintage 2010, although I’ve had one or two a few years back before I was serious enough to document my beer samples. The body appears as a bright red color with a small, fluffy, light pink head. The lacing is a bit thin and runny, which seems to be the case with most lambics I’ve tried. The aroma is far less “wild” than what one might anticipate from a lambic. To be sure, scents of barnyard are present, but the raspberry aroma is surprisingly powerful, although not overpowering. Strong vinegar and earthy aromas also come forward, which really adds to the beer’s roughness. The taste is certainly sour, but the raspberries add a level of sweetness to it that really makes Boon’s Framboise a remarkably well-balanced brew. Not surprisingly, the mouthfeel comes with lots of carbonation, and the finish is quite dry.

If you’ve had just about any other fruit lambic, say Kriek for example, then I’m sure you’ll find Framboise to be a rather sweet concoction. That said, the overall balance is still on the sour side – enough to tell the drinker that, indeed, one is downing some of the Senne Valley’s finest funkiness.

Links


Brouwerij F. Boon: http://www.boon.be/



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Monday, December 26, 2011

Ægir: Natt Imperial Porter – A testimony to excellence and elegance


Ægir’s brewery is nestled in the tiny and majestic fjord town of Flåm, Norway, and the brewery’s arrival to the scene there really completed Flåm as an attractive tourist destination. Ægir’s brews are noteworthy for their subtleness; indeed, it often takes a very perceptive palate to identify all the particularities in Ægir’s flavor complexes, as compared to Nøgne Ø’s more “in your face” approach, or so it seems. Both qualities are good, but this difference is why I sometimes prefer Nøgne Ø’s brews: You don’t have to work as hard to draw out and identify the different tastes. 

I’ve managed to sample Natt Imperial Port on three separate occasions, and this brew just seems to taste better and better over time. Like other Ægir products, Natt’s characteristics are subtle and delicate; they threaten to escape the attention of a causal drinker. In my view, this is one of the best Ægir products and is probably in my list of top five beers I’ve tasted in 2011. Life in the glass starts with a dark brown – almost black – color with a small but well retained tan head. The lacing is tight and sticky, although the most recent sample I’ve had was a bit weak in the lacing. 

Generally speaking, Natt Imperial Porter’s aroma is not amazingly powerful, but is instead loaded with subtle complexities, including faint hints of licorice, chocolate, berries, sweet malt, and more. But coffee seems to be a dominant aroma. The creamy mouthfeel and generous carbonation are accompanied by a variety of flavors, notably coffee, toffee, caramel, and licorice. There’s a wonderfully bitter climax right before the finish, leading to nutty and licorice flavors that seem to linger on for a few minutes while competing for the palate’s attention. What’s surprising about this is how easy it is to drink, largely due to the virtual absence of any alcohol taste, despite its 10 percent ABV. Natt Imperial Porter does lose some of its balance as the temperature exceeds 12 Celsius (54 f) and the alcohol flavor comes alive.

Overall, Natt Imperial Porter is a testimony to Ægir’s crafting excellence and elegance. While its price is awfully high, I strongly recommend sampling this. But do so with the expectation of having to work a bit to sort out the aromas and tastes. 

Links

 

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Saturday, December 24, 2011

Ægir: Rallar (Amber Ale) – Caramel, apples, dark chocolate and more


“Rallar” is a Norwegian word that was used to describe migrant industrial workers during the 1800s and early 1900s, most notably those that worked on building the railroad line that stretches from Oslo in eastern Norway across the plateaus to reach Bergen on the west coast. The construction road used for building the railroad is called “Rallarvegen”, which today is a well-travelled hiking route. One of the endpoints of “Rallarvegen” is in the majestic fjord town of Flåm, the home to Ægir’s brewery.

The term “Rallar, however, is a sort of curious choice for this fine ale. After all, the price of this beer is far from working class.  But for me, it’s one of the best amber ale’s I’ve had in recent years, and it’s truly a treat for me and anyone who happens to drop in for a visit, although serving too many of these to guests (and to myself) can get expensive. But it’s worth it. 

Life in the glass begins with a medium-brown pour, culminating in a tall and well-retained fluffy off-white head. The lacing is tight and sticky. Taking a whiff reveals a very powerful aroma with an ample amount of complexity given its timid 4.7 percent ABV: think caramel, apples, dark chocolate, and a hint of spice. The mouthfeel is slightly watery and, for the first second or so, there does not seem to be much taste to it aside from a bit of apples perhaps. But, after two to three seconds on the palate, there is a burst of chocolate and caramel that recedes into a nutty and slightly bitter finish. In short, swallowing it too quickly will leave very little in the way of taste. But, letting sit on the palate for a bit really turns this ale into a wonderful treat. Overall, it’s well balanced and a great session beer.

Links


Ægir Brewery: http://www.flamsbrygga.no/en 

Image credits

Cardinal Pub: http://www.cardinal.no/ 

Thursday, December 22, 2011

Victory: Storm King (Imperial Stout) – Espresso never tasted so good


Located in Downingtown, Pennsylvania – about a 30 minute’s drive to the west of Philadelphia, Victory Brewing Company has about a dozen regular beers, another ten or so seasonal beers, and an excellent brewpub that I look forward to revisiting the next time I’m in the area. Storm King was my first encounter with Victory products – introduced to me at a local New Years Eve party a few years back. Since then, I’ve tried to sample everything they put out. To this day, I have yet to come across a Victory product that is anything less than superb. But, for me at least, Storm King is their flagship brew.

Life outside the bottle begins with a night black color, culminating in a medium-sized and resilient dark tan head. The lacing is tight and sticky, clinging to the sides of the glass long after the beer is consumed. The nose is roasted malts:  caramel, espresso galore, chocolate, and not a hint of alcohol, which is impressive considering its 9.1 percent ABV. A hop note is clearly present, but it’s definitely subdued by the malt. 

While the mouth feel is a bit less creamy than I might have hoped, the taste is brilliant: roasted malts, caramel, dark chocolate, and more. Storm King seems to be hopped more aggressively than other comparable stouts, but the hop bitterness does well in supporting the malt flavors. The espresso flavor rushes in about half-way to the finish and lingers on for a minute or so afterwards. But espresso never tasted so good! Again, not a hint of alcohol can be found, which certainly satisfies my tastes, but probably weakens its loyalty to imperial stouts as a genre.

Links

Victory: Yakima Glory – The sensations of Yakima Valley


I have yet to sample a Victory product that is anything less than superb. And Victory’s Yakima Glory certainly continues that trend. However, unlike the other Victory products I’ve sampled in the past, I knew nothing about this particular specimen other than the obvious reference to Yakima Valley, America’s most prominent hop production region, and the orange- and yellow-colored hops featured on the beer’s label. So, I my expectation of Yakima Glory was something along the lines of a punchy pale ale or perhaps an IPA. 

The first surprise came as I poured it into a glass: It was far darker than I anticipated, but the aroma spoke the language of an IPA, just as I thought it would. Indeed, the body is of a dark amber color, culminating in a foamy and well-retained beige head. The lacing is dense and sticky – respectable if not awesome. The aroma is as if someone dumped me off is the middle of a field in Yakima Valley: Strong citrus aromas are tied together with references to pine, flowers, and tobacco. Perhaps the only downside in the aroma was the very weak references to malt (which I expected from such a dark ale), making it slightly unbalanced, but nose candy nonetheless. 

The mouth feel and taste(s) are just as wonderful as the aroma and appearance. The body is medium to full with a medium level of carbonation. Taking a generous mouthful reveals a wonderful array of flavors. With strong hints of tropical fruits, pine, and flowers paired with a punchy bitter finish, Yakima Glory is definitely hop forward. However, a wealth of malt flavors certainly comes through in the taste, including chocolate, caramel, and some roasted notes. 

It only took a few sips to classify this as a black IPA, which is a sort of strange classification when considering the fact that the “pale” in IPA is a reference to a color that is nearly the antithesis of black, at least in the beer world. Perhaps “IBA” would be a more befitting classification for Victory’s Yakima Glory. Whatever the case, I highly recommend this to anyone that loves hybrid IPAs.

Links

Ratebeer.com: http://www.ratebeer.com/beer/victory-yakima-twilight/95757/

Image credits

Mission Latin Bar and Restaurant: http://www.missionbar.com
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